Start with the bulb. If you're swapping a fixture, the breaker and a voltage tester come first, every time.
Most lights that won't turn on have a dead or wrong bulb, or a tripped breaker, before anything is wrong with the fixture itself. Difficulty: Level 3: Confident DIYer. Plan on 20 to 60 min.
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Swap in a bulb you know works. Check the fixture's label for the maximum wattage and bulb type.
Check the breaker panel for a tripped breaker.
If other lights or outlets on the same switch or room are also out, it's likely the circuit, not the fixture.
Replacing a fixture means disconnecting and reconnecting its wires at the electrical box, so power safety comes first. Difficulty: Level 3: Confident DIYer. Plan on 20 to 60 min.
Safety: Turn off the breaker, not just the wall switch. Confirm the wires are dead with a non-contact voltage tester, and test the tester on a live outlet first.
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Turn off the breaker, not just the wall switch. Confirm the wires are dead with a non-contact voltage tester, and test the tester on a live outlet first.
With the breaker off and the wires tested dead, remove the old fixture and take a photo of the wiring.
Mount the new fixture's bracket to the electrical box.
Connect ground to ground (bare or green), white to white, and black to black, using wire connectors. Twist until snug and tug each wire to check.
Tuck the wires in, mount the fixture, install bulbs, then turn the breaker back on.
Flickering that isn't the bulb, buzzing, heat, scorch marks or a hot smell can mean a loose connection or an overloaded fixture. Turn off the breaker for that light and have a licensed electrician check it.
Older or unusual wiring, missing grounds, heavy fixtures that need a fan-rated box, and circuits that stay dead all need a licensed electrician. It's the safe call.